One Thousand Feet Below Sea Level

Hey, Pilgrims! Today we ventured into the occupied territories on the West Bank. First stop was Jacob’s Well in Nablus. As the noted biblical archeologist, Zeljko Gregor, once said, “The nice things about wells is that they don’t move.” So you can be rest assured that this was the real place.

Jacob’s Well – Jesus Meets the Samaritan Woman

Here’s a fun fact. In sacred scripture, wells were the places where lots of men met their wives. So it was with Jacob who met Rachel by a well. He was crazy for her, but because Laban her father switched her older sister for Rachel at the wedding, he had to wait fourteen years before he could marry her. Moses also met his first wife by a well. So it’s an interesting thing that Jesus would meet with the Samaritan woman by a well. (See John 4:4-42) Of course, he did not wish to marry her, but he did bring her into relationship with him as the Messiah. Note in John’s account how she goes through three stages of knowing Christ. First she sees him as a very special man, then as a prophet, and finally as the Messiah. Just like plumbing the depths of the well, Jesus takes her deeper and deeper in to the mystery of who he is. Pretty darn cool. I think he does something similar with all of us as we gradually get to know him for who he really is, and in the process get to know ourselves for who we really are.

We drew some water out of the well. The well itself is about 35 feet deep and the water has a depth of about 6 feet. It comes out crystal clear. This is some really good water. The Greek Orthodox monks there were most hospitable to us. They have been very busy making the church beautiful. It is the fifth or sixth church on the site since the fourth century. The well is in the crypt chapel below the sanctuary.

Facade of Jacob’s Well Orthodox Church. It’s based on the crusader church that preceded it.
Nave of Jacob’s Well Church
Dome of Jacob’s Well Church
Jacob’s Well. I found it interesting that the gift shop was within five feet of it in the crypt chapel off to the right. Oh well…

The Jordan River – Most people have this image of the Jordan River as some mighty flowing waterway. The reality can be a bit underwhelming. It’s actually only about ten of fifteen meters across. One reason for this is that so much of it is syphoned off for irrigation. This far downstream, about a mile from it’s terminus in the Dead Sea it is slow and murky. Nevertheless, most scholars agree that this is the area nearest to where Christ was baptized. It is also the general area where the Israelites would have crossed into the promised land on their way to Jericho. The walls have never been rebuilt, by the way. We stopped and renewed our baptismal promises there.

The…uh…mighty Jordan River.
Looking across the Jordan River into the Kingdom of Jordan. The river serves as the international border between the two countries. Note the Jordanian flags on the other side.
Fr. Page gives us a good sprinkle after we renewed our baptismal promises, just like on Easter Sunday. Oblivious Canadian pilgrims are in the background.

Jericho – Guess who’s coming to dinner? Jericho was a surprisingly important town in Jesus’s day. Since there was only room for so many priests in Jerusalem, the rest of them hung out here. It was a center of learning and commerce. Thus, Zacchaeus would have made a good living as a tax collector. His conversion is a good lesson for us all. Jesus doesn’t need much of an opening to invite himself in. There is hope for us all.

A sycamore tree. Not THE sycamore tree, but you can see how easy it would have been for a little guy like Zacchaeus to climb one of these.